Day 37 Monday – Back on the bikes – To Bratislava and beyond

I was reading up on Bratislava, a city about which I knew very little. It has a population of 450,000. Apart of course from general interest, the population of a place is important for us cyclists – the bigger the place the more one has to cycle from seeing the first sign for our destination for the night to our hotel as we generally book hotels in the old, more interesting section. Vienna totally took the biscuit in this regard but then it was by far the biggest city we have stayed in on this trip.

Interestingly –  In 2017, Bratislava was ranked as the third richest region of the European Union by GDP per capita (after Hamburg and Luxembourg City). I did not know that.

They must have known I was coming – Slovakia is the eighth best city for freelancers to live in, mostly because of fast internet and the low taxes. Slovakia should know a thing or two about hot wifi!

Anyway, today we cycled 74 km from Vienna to Bratislava. Screen Shot 2017-07-10 at 18.34.42It was mostly a flat and once we were out of Vienna, for the first time I’m going to say initially it was an uninteresting cycle – there were long stretches of straight road with very little of interest on my cinema screen. IMG_5765In the afternoon there was a head wind – it tried its best to keep us out of Bratislava for as long as possible but we persevered!

This morning when I woke up early, going against recent form, I checked the weather app on my phone. It showed the lightning and rain symbol in Vienna until 10 o’clock. Denis woke and I said to him that he should take the opportunity for a lie-in, we hadn’t a big cycle planned, so there was no pressure on us to set off. I’m a morning person  so got up, went to breakfast and finished uploading the one million and fifty photos from our weekend in Vienna 🙂

I watched the weather as I worked. Not a drop of rain. Not a flash of lightning. Not a clap of thunder – to look or not to look at the forecast, that is my dilemma!

At 10 o’clock we set off. My late mother, always a very hard worker, used to say that she hated a day getting away on her! I thought of her this morning. It was slightly frustrating. What with waiting out the bad weather that never materialised plus it took us a long time to get from our hotel in Vienna back onto the Véloroute. But none of it mattered.

With our 100ish km days cycling we had gotten into a rhythm of start at 7.30am, cycle roughly 30 km before morning coffee break, a further 30 km before lunch, 20 km before afternoon break, and finally 20 km to destination. This morning we felt out of our usually rhythm but our cycle was shorter so it was fine.

Some photos from the day

Cleaning the windows at our hotel as we left:

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We crossed this bridge over the DanubeIMG_5284

And this is how we lost the heightIMG_5281IMG_5285

I took this photo of leaves already beginning to turnIMG_5296

The Véloroute for a while this morning passed through quite an industrialed area.IMG_5758

Spotted at our very late lunch stop – what to do with your old, rusty bikesIMG_5300

This is the first time we have seen a blue Danube, up to now it has been green. I need to check out why.IMG_5782

Hainburg an der Donau with its nice old buildings

Heads bowed in respect!IMG_5317

We saw Bratislava up on a hill from a good few kilometres out. IMG_5796Bratislava Castle is very prominent over the city, apologies for picture quality, taken while cycling!IMG_5823

We passed this former customs point, now with weeds growing – a remnant of Iron Curtain days and finally made redundant when Slovakia joined the EU.IMG_5805

Though not as bad as with Vienna, this evening was another case of long cycle from first seeing destination to actually reaching hotel. It’s like the saying The darkest hour is just before dawn. 

Walking to dinner Denis made the suggestion – given we knew very little of Bratislava/Slovakia why not stay here tomorrow, I immediately jumped at the idea. No marks for guessing the title of tomorrow’s post – A day in …

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Days 35 and 36 Saturday and Sunday – Weekend in Vienna

We had a great weekend in Vienna. I’d been to Vienna before but had never spent much time in the city, it was nice to get a chance to see a bit more of it. Vienna is big – 1.8 million live in the city itself.  The city centre was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 and one can see why – it really is so beautiful – there are just so many beautiful buildings – I was wondering to myself how long would you have to stay here to feel you had really seen Vienna…

I like buildings so first up a health warning – there are lots of pictures of beautiful buildings in this post, (but only a drop in the ocean of the number of beautiful buildings in Vienna.)

And a comment on our hotel. Our friends had arrived into Vienna before us so we stayed in the same hotel. Their comment was that it was dinky and it really was. Many hotels have a sameness feel to them but this one had carved out a unique identity and one could feel a difference. The building was a former shopping centre and included many reminders of its former life – the props in the breakfast area were very fitting for a classy tailor!


The hotel included a movie lounge, yoga area, music instruments… A small point that I thought imminently sensible – an ironing station set up on a corridor – no more fighting with that ironing board stuck away in the back of a wardrobe, (not that we are doing much ironing on this trip!) I loved their healthy breakfast, free use of a marker, plants in the dark at reception.

 

On Saturday we first took a bus tour around the city and then walked between various sights. First up the gothic St Stephen’s Cathedral.



The Museum of history of the Arts

Vienna is well know for its cafés

The Ring tower

Fun toilets in a café – when you go in first there’s clear glass on the door and between each cubicle but the glass goes opaque when you lock the cubicle door – but you don’t know that until you go in. Everyone who came in the bathroom area was initially very taken aback – I never saw so much chat going on between people in a bathroom! (The figure in the pictures is just the reflection of the photographer.)

Back to classical buildings! The Vienna State Opera houseIMG_5100.jpg

Schmetterlingshaus – Palm house and Butterfly house on the left. We had lunch in Palm house during heavy rain. Unfortunately I didn’t take any good photos of the interior. Again there was thunder and lightning with the rain.IMG_5105

The Hofburg, Vienna’s former Imperial palace  is a big complex of buildings. Once home to the emperors, the medieval castle was enlarged gradually up until 1918, and as the power of the Hapsburgs grew, successive emperors added buildings in contemporary styles. Today the Hofburg houses the offices of the Austrian president, an international convention centre and much more.

 

A conference underway.Screen Shot 2017-07-10 at 08.19.01

 

 

 

 

The Theseus Temple is located in Volksgarten Park near the centre and was built between 1819 and 1823. It was intended to be the home for a single work – Canova’s Theseus Slaying the Centaur which, seventy years later, was transferred to one of Vienna’s museums. IMG_5120

Since 2012 exhibitions of single pieces now take place in the temple. This year it’s a work of a Californian sculptor, Kathleen Ryan.IMG_5122

Volksgarten, a park near the centre, beautiful rose gardens with over 3,000 rose bushes of more than 200 different roses.

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(Including a photo of another rose!)

The Neo-Gothic Town hall (Rathaus)IMG_5128

Parliament building was designed in Greek style. Two broad ramps are lined by statues of Greek philosophers leading to the main entrance. Here the first republic of Austria was declared in 1918. 

My only wish was that there weren’t as many power lines!

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I’ve included a few photos of the columnated entrance. I checked up on my Corinthian columns – thanks Ms Hayes for your Latin teaching in secondary school – I did like your classes.

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The Athena Fountain (Pallas-Athene-Brunnen) in front of the Parliament building. The female statues represent the legislative and executive powers of the state.IMG_5155

And Joseph with two other female powers.IMG_5158

The republic monument, beside Parliament building, recalls the proclamation of the Republic of Austria on 12th November 1918. The monument consists of busts of the three Social Democrats each resting on a pedestal.

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The Liebenberg monument is beside the main building of the university.  Liebenberg was mayor of Vienna from 1680 to 1683. Apparently as early as 1679, he acquired great merit in combating a plaque epidemic in the city and then in 1683, his greatest achievement was during the second Turks invasion of Vienna, he supervised the defence and organised an army.IMG_5141

University buildingIMG_5171.jpg

Andrea and Joseph left early Sunday. I planned my Sunday organising a few things in the morning and then sight seeing in the afternoon. The weather and we are becoming very predictable; we don’t bother checking the weather and it serves up a storm each afternoon. I had set off on my sight seeing but a downpour including thunder and lightning sent me home earlier than planned.

I got to see the magnificent Art Nouveau Secession building.IMG_5208

This white, cubic Secession building was built in 1897 and the exhibition hall opened in 1898. Most of the original interior was looted during World War 11. It was renovated in the 1970s. The beautiful dome is made up of gilt laurel leaves. Above the entrance of the pavilion is the motto of the Secessionist movement – in English “To every age its art, to art its freedom”

The mosaic flower pots on either side of the entrance are carried by four turtles.

I had wanted to get to see Hundertwasserhaus apparently an amazing social housing development and Andrea had highly recommended that I go to see the Belvedere, (the latter consisting of two Baroque palaces and much more and is also where Klimt’s The Kiss is exhibited.) Again, I’ll just have to come back!

Our two day break in Vienna was just the R&R we needed after six days cycling. Tomorrow it’s on to Bratislava!

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Day 34 Friday – Storming through a record 84 km before lunch

Friday was a long cycle – 126 km from Melk to Vienna.Screen Shot 2017-07-09 at 12.52.13

As normal, we set off early when there’s a long cycle on the cards.

I should have noticed something strange – after yesterday when the Véloroute was crawling with cyclists, today we had it almost to ourselves. I postulated that we were out early thus we might have been ahead of the madding crowd. I postulated that Friday might be a change-over day for those in organised groups. Having finished postulating, I forgot about the no crowd and watched the picture on my Friday cinema screen unfold.

We were now passing many fruit trees; apricots, apples, plums, cherries …IMG_5013.jpg

Today our cycle took us through the Wachau region with its vineyards. Apparently Wachau produces excellent wine.IMG_5020IMG_5693IMG_5700A very pretty small churchIMG_5022.jpg

We met an Australian guy, Peter, cycling Véloroute 6 from its start on the Danube to Budapest. We chatted for a while as we cycled along together. He was camping en route. He wore a cycling top with the line by Cadel Evans “It’s amazing how far two wheels can take you in life”, (Cadel Evans was the Australian professional cyclist who won the Tour de France in 2011.) I was going to use that line as the title for this post but changed my mind with what came later. We were stopping for coffee, Peter had already done so he cycled on.

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When we stopped for our coffee, it started to rain and we thought that was lucky – the rain started just as we could hit indoors. After our coffee break, it was mostly beginning to clear, or so we thought! Lately we hadn’t been bothering to check the forecast because even when the forecast was poor, the actual days turned out pretty fine. Today was to change that pattern!

We were back on our bikes cycling along minding our own business when suddenly the heavens opened and emptied their contents on us. That was’t so bad, it was a warm day, our stuff was safe, including our laptops – our panniers were lined with plastic bags, the contents were in further plastic bags. It was the lightning, accompanied immediately by a thunder clap, (i.e., no time delay), that made us realise we had really offended the Gods – One flash of lightning was like a fighter jet flying just over our heads.

I checked with the engineer and he said we were as or safer cycling as we would be elsewhere outdoors. (We did shelter for a bit but the trees weren’t saving us much so we gave up.) At one stage a river boat passed us and if they saw us I imagined they felt sorry for us. We didn’t feel an ounce of sorrow for ourselves. Once I felt we were safe, I relaxed and actually enjoyed the rain. My rain jacket also relaxed and enjoyed letting in rain.

We didn’t meet too many other cyclists but those we did smiled knowingly at us – we seemed to be sharing a common experience. I then realised – all those other cyclists had the sense to stay in their beds. They knew something we didn’t!

Almost as quick as it had started, the rain cleared, the day brightened and it was as if the storm had never happened. We changed our tops and by lunchtime it was all a memory other than the wet tables and seats in the plaza when we stopped for lunch at Tullin.

And we had stormed through a record 84 km by lunchtime!

In the afternoon, I took this photograph to point out the gaps on the river bank which are kept clear of vegetation to show the 100 metre interval markers.IMG_5027.jpg

These particular two kilometre markers, (distance to the Black sea) are important dates in our lives!

This dog was also (lazily) doing Véloroute 6!

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Approaching Vienna, look at that beautiful sky after the morning we had! (Our phones would have been destroyed if we had tried to take photographs earlier during the downpour.)

As you can imagine with Vienna being a very big city – it was a good distance from first reaching Vienna to getting to our hotel for the night. I was totally exhausted by that last 126th kilometre! IMG_5046

It was so good to meet Andrea and Joseph at the hotel that all exhaustion vanished – we had a lovely dinner and great catch-up.IMG_5048We were looking forward to our two-day break with the friends in Vienna.

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Day 33 Thursday – When origin and destination are four letter words

Linz to Melk was a lovely flat 111 km cycle today with the wind behind us in the afternoon.

I mentioned that St Mary’s Cathedral was just beside our hotel last night – it was just outside our window. Normally I don’t go near my phone at night, (other than than to play radio through earphones), but when I woke during the night, I couldn’t resist taking a photo. Only an exterior shade covered the window, we hadn’t drawn the curtains inside. This was the view at 4.54am.

Wouldn’t you cycle across Europe to wake during the night to this view in Linz?

A little later, morning breaking 

Denis was already gone down to breakfast, I was enthralled by the view from the window in the morning sun, that I found it hard to leave it. I’ve long since parted ways with organised religion but this hymn came to mind:

Oh Lord my God
When I in awesome wonder
Consider all the works
Thy hands have made
I see the stars
I hear the mighty thunder
Thy power throughout
The universe displayed

Booking the night’s accommodation is a daily job. Whilst we try to do it with care, we don’t spend too much time at it, (we use booking.com a lot). We had no idea that we would have such a super view when we quickly booked last night’s hotel.

The bike has three main gears – on hilly days that first gear is needed a lot whilst third gear on flat days. Similarly I’ve three layers of clothes; sleeveless T shirt, cycling top and rain jacket. On hot days, just the sleeveless T shirt is needed but all three layers on cool/wet days. Today was very much a third gear, one layer day!

The Véloroute section that we are now on – Passau to Vienna, is really busy with cyclists mostly travelling in the same direction as us. I’m not surprised as it’s a lovely flat section. I just checked the Véloroute 6 website and yes this is the busiest section. It’s funny there were earlier sections in this trip where we cycled for the day hardly meeting a soul whereas now we need to cycle with care to avoid a cycling accident. Here, we’ve also come across cyclists on organised trips with their luggage being moved between hotels.

We had a funny incident today with a  cyclist. Normally one is cycling along and like with cars, if you approach one from behind and the one in front is going slightly slower, one overtakes. Today we came upon a lone cyclist cycling along with a big backpack and passed him. Two minutes later he passed us. We spoke as we passed but he had no English, we weren’t sure what nationality he was – possibly Hungarian. We cycled on further and came upon him again, (he was immediately recognisable from behind because of the big backpack). We cycled for a good while behind him and then passed him again. Once again he immediately passed us. Further on if Denis and I came up behind him and were talking, he immediately sped up. Denis and I realised what was going on – he didn’t want us passing him, but probably more particularly me. Because we were going at roughly the same speed, we couldn’t shake him off. Eventually we stopped for a break and that was the last we saw of lone cyclist with the big backpack.

Some photographs from the day

Travelling out of Linz this morning we passed a very industrialised area where there appeared to be a lot of emissions from heavy industry. You could smell them in the air.

But back out in the countryside – Courgettes growing

More storks, Like the swans, I can’t resist them

A vessel being piloted up the river. I recently read Uncommon Carriers by John McPhee, a book on freight transportation. In it he describes large groups of barges tied together, being piloted up the Illinois River. Here on the Danube we’ve yet only seen this happening with two vessels.

We’ve had to take ferries a few times over the past few days, first on Tuesday to our accommodation in Schlögen, twice yesterday to bypass a point where the Véloroute was blocked and today where the Véloroute switched from the northern to the southern side of the Danube. The ferries across are

very quick and frequent.

Cycling towards Melk, our stop for the evening. Melk Abbey, a Baroque Benedictine Abbey dominated our view of the town from a long way off. 

Arriving into Melk 

And look what our one minute spent on booking.com had for us outside our bedroom window. Whilst last night’s hotel was really nice, tonight’s is nothing extra special, but here’s our view.

Melk, another lovely small medieval town although this one seemed to cater a lot to tourists. To give you an idea with a population of 5,000 Melk has ten hotels. It’s not surprising since the Abbey draws a lot of visitors.

After all the long cycle today, I honestly hadn’t the energy to climb the big hill to visit the Abbey. I’ll just have to come back!

Tomorrow we plan a long cycle to reach Vienna.

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Day 32 Wednesday – Pumpkining up the kilometres

Today we had the most amazing ice creams on the edge of the Danube – Pumpkin Seed Sundaes – the silkiest vanilla ice cream, pumpkin seed brittle, pumpkin seed oil and chocolate sauce.

Ice cream to die for – Or at least to cycle far for!

They seem to have been cooking here for some time, their menu told us –

In 1635 our Landgasthof (county hotel) has been mentioned in a document for the first time as “Wirt an der Brücke” (Inn on the bridge). 

Today was a short, flat 63 km cycle from Schlögen to Linz. I would have said flat but Strava begs to differ with its 658 metres elevation gain. Strava, I honestly didn’t feel it!

The scenery as nearly always was breathtakingly beautiful.

We hadn’t been seeing Lime pollen for a couple of weeks but we saw it again today. It really is like a snow shower as the photo shows. One definitely wouldn’t want to have a pollen allergy cycling through this.

Cycling into Linz, we could see the spire of St Mary’s Cathedral in the distance. Linz was our stop for the night. Linz with a population of just over 200,000 is the third largest cities in Austria, (after Vienna and Graz).

We are getting to be very efficient tourists now. Generally the most interesting parts of these towns and cities are the old section so we try to book a hotel in that part. Tonight’s hotel is right beside St Mary’s Cathedral.

St Mary’s Cathedral is a Catholic Cathedral in Gothic-Revival style. According to Wikipedia With a total height of 134,8 meters, the cathedral is the tallest church in Austria. Constructed in the years of 1862 and 1924, it is fully built of sandstone with unfinished front details.

I’ll allow myself two photos!

And

It is currently undergoing big renovations so a lot of the interior was blocked off.

Another beautiful cathedral today but a totally different style compared with yesterday’s. We seem to be cycling between cathedrals these days.

Another beautiful sight was the Plague Column built to built to remember the people who died in the plague epidemics. The Black Death was one of the most devastating pandemics in human history, resulting in the deaths of an estimated 75 to 200 million people in Eurasia, peaking in Europe in the years 1346–1353.

And finally, Mozarthaus where Mozart composed his Linz Symphony in 1783.

We had a lovely dinner in Linz and home to bed early, planning another longish cycle tomorrow. Good night Linz!

 

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Day 31 Passing through Passau

Today we cycled 101 km from Deggendorf to Schlögen in Austria and it was a lovely and flat.

We set off with the sky again looking very threatening.

In the past, people looked at the sky for signs of what the weather would be like for the day, today we look at our phones. The weather app on the phone showed lots of cloud but no rain, the sky looked very different – today I wanted to believe my phone.

What a fun archway made out of bottle crates to welcome cyclists, well welcome anyone, into Vilshofen!

I took this photograph just because it shows the very distinctive roof tile colour of the region up close, here put to a different use.

Admiring the Danube at Windorf.

I had promised myself no more swan photos but then I saw this family. (The young seem quite grown up to be at home still.)

Note how big the transporters are in this lock coming into Passau. (They look small in the photograph but the one on the right is a car transporter.) We’re so much more used to smaller vessels in locks. Denis mentioned what must the locks be like on the Panama canal!

And then we come upon the Véloroute suddenly closed to us. Of course we just wheeled the bikes around the side. It’s funny though the Veloroute can sometimes be closed/dug up – there are never any warning nor diversion signs. It seems the powers-that-be don’t have to think ahead of the needs of cyclists as they do for car drivers. Or maybe they think cyclists are an ingenious lot and will work it out themselves!

I hadn’t spotted this until now – a clever way for not having to get off the bike at lights. The lights here include a symbol for cyclists as well as pedestrians, (not shown in photo).

With my little show of non-love for German food yesterday, we has a gorgeous lunch today in Passau in a very modern restaurant in the old city. Modern and old side by side. 

The modern restaurant

And then the old stairs leading downstairs to the toilet area. A newly refurbished but very old building.

After lunch I set off to see the Dom (Cathedral).

Some facts I learned – St Stephen’s Cathedral is a baroque Catholic church. Since 730, there have been many churches built on this site. The current church was built from 1668 to 1693 after a fire destroyed the previous one.

The cathedral has eight large bells in the bell rooms in the two towers. The tower on the left has the date 1074 and the one on the right has 1075 – I liked their precision!

The interior detail was amazing! (I’m being restrained with photographs here, I took many more!)

This Cathedral has the largest organ outside of the US, (Los Angeles). It is also the largest cathedral organ in the world. 

I loved the fact that though the ceiling and walls are very ornate, the floor and seats were very plain. Our focus is kept upwards.

Having walked around the old city for a bit it was back to cycling onwards.

One point I learned about Passau is that due to its location on the German-Austrian border, and in the south-east of the country, it has become a major migrant entry point into Germany.

Passau is also known as the City of Three Rivers because the Danube is joined at Passau by the Inn from the south and the Ilz from the north. Leaving Passau in the direction of Vienna, we saw where the three rivers joined.

Having checked that the three rivers were behaving themselves perfectly, we set off for our destination for the night in Schlögen. Vodafone were quick to remind us that we were crossing the border!

We had to get the ferry across to continue the Veloroute on the other side – about a 2 minute ferry journey.

We had a lovely evening in Schlögen.

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Day 30 Monday – Kaiser Karl V and Others…

Today we cycled 105 km to Deggendorf. We made a mess of directions at one point this morning which added kilometres to our journey without progress! We are nearing the Austrian border.

The cycling was very flat. Given I moan about the elevation gain on the bad days, I thought that I should include the graphic for a good day.

It’s clear that we’re following the river downwards from source to sea!

Our lovely hotel last night in Regensburg was right in the centre of the Altstadt (old town) and was really quaint and interesting. For instance, each room entrance had the name of a famous “Regensburger” from the corresponding century in the doorway carpet. We had Room 16 which was Kaiser Karl V (1500-1558), a member of the Habsburgs. Next door was Albrecht Altdorfer (1480-1538), a German painter, engraver and architect of the Renaissance working in Regensburg. Room 14 was Friedrich Auer v. Greenberg whose history I didn’t go into.

Here’s the photo of Kaiser Karl V looking down on us from the wall of our bedroom!

At reception there was a full list of the people after whom the twenty rooms were named. 

Later, having left the hotel, the feminist came out in me and I tried to check this photograph to see if there were any women included but even enlarging the photo, I couldn’t tell. At this stage, still being curious I rang Beata, at reception who had been really helpful the previous evening. I asked her if there were any women on the list and she said yes there was at least one, she’d check to see if there were more. I was happy to hear that at least one woman had made it to the list.

Maybe the recent article in the New York Times on Women in Tech Speak Frankly on Culture of Harassment was too fresh in my mind! (The photograph at the top of this NYT article baffles me though – I digress!)

Anyway back out on our bikes on an overcast morning. We passed this crop wearing what almost looked like raincoats. I’ve no idea what crop it was.

What a sky but not a drop of rain fell on us all day.

Having spent a lot of time over the years in France I’m very familiar with war memorials in villages and towns for their boys and men lost in various wars. Here’s a German war memorial at Gosling for those lost in the first world war.

We passed this flock of sheep and the muzzled sheep dog.

The shepherd then appeared. He asked me if we were English, obviously having heard Denis and I speak. I explained we were Irish. He was happy to have his photograph taken. 

Denis talks about picking hazelnuts as a child in Moneygall. I’m not familiar with hazelnuts growing wild so was happy to see some.

A long river boat – some of these river boats travel quite fast.

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We had lunch in Straubing, again another beautiful town, (population 47,000). As we approached the town I could count seven spires in the distance.IMG_4422

We had a lovely lunch in the town centre. I watched a group of elderly people having lunch together nearby and thought of that awful bus crash this morning in Northern Bavaria where eighteen elderly people were killed. Those people on that bus, out on an excursion, were probably thinking mundane things like where they would have lunch and then it’s all over!

I’ve included some pictures of more beautiful buildings in Straubing.IMG_4437IMG_4438IMG_4439IMG_4440IMG_4447IMG_4448

Then it was back on the road. I love the way there are no ditches/hedgerows that would obstruct our view of what’s growing in the fields. Visitors to Ireland don’t have this advantage!IMG_5462

Our first sighting of the cobs developing in the corn (maize) crop.IMG_4454

Just a picture showing the Véloroute on the levee beside the roadway. Denis is the red dot on the levee.IMG_4463

We don’t meet many people walking the route, but this was one.IMG_5466

Rush hour in duckland!IMG_5468

We arrived at our stop for the night in Deggendorf. Having left the Véloroutee, we followed Google maps cycle route to our hotel, except there was the small problem of a railway to cross.IMG_4468

Not a problem they provide a lift that takes bikes to cross under the railway.IMG_4464

We stayed in a nice hotel in Deggendorf and had a lovely dinner. In general I’m not a fan of German food – we’ve come across a lot of sausage, noodles, dumplings… However I do like their Sauerkraut, particularly when it includes caraway seeds. Last night’s dinner however was good, I should have photographed more. The tomato sauce with the steak was a lovely homemade spicy sauce. I loved their generous use of herbs.IMG_4514

Someone later pointed me to a tweet he had seen referring to German food –

Was thinking Germany has beautiful scenery & as many medieval villages & towns as Italy. Should be on tourist lists. Then I looked at the menu. 

I would tend to agree – the scenery, the medieval villages and towns are amazing, the food less so.

 

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